Kamis, 24 April 2014

Talking to Tumblr favourite Ouigi Theodore, the man behind Brooklyn Circus


If you're a regular on Tumblr, chances are you'll recognise Ouigi Theodore - even if you don't recognise his name or his brand Brooklyn Circus - thanks to his impressively thick, perfectly trimmed beard, usually worn with a wide smile poking out from underneath. Needless to say the 38-year-old designer is always dressed effortlessly, whether he's wearing a clean-cut suit, a T-shirt and jeans or one of his trademark neckerchiefs. Of course it certainly helps in the identification process that he's usually got one of his label's bold 'elephant B' logos emblazoned on his chest.


Brooklyn Circus is a prime example of what continues to make its namesake New York borough so influential with men. Founded during the #menswear boom of the mid-2000s, Theodore's brand takes preppy items (its signature being the monogrammed varsity jacket) and styles them up in a distinctly un-preppy way by pairing them with sportswear. Its concentration on slim-cuts, snapbacks and bold, ballsy logos keep things firmly in the streetwear arena rather than it slipping into a world of stuffy Ivy League privilege. It's this mixed-up vibe that has made Brooklyn - not to mention the BK Circus brand - famous, as well as its founder street style regular.


Originally trained as a graphic designer, Theodore now travels the world not only as a brand ambassador but also teaming up with some of the most exciting collaborators around, such as SHIPS in Japan and design duo Art Comes First here in London. All of which goes to prove that Brooklyn Circus has an almost limitless appeal regardless of country or, indeed, age. 'Basically I wanted to create a brand that we could grow up with,' he says. 'It can speak to younger guys just as well as older guys. Education, style and character are the cornerstones of our brand.'


As he prepares to launch his latest collection at Harrods, we catch up with one of Brooklyn's most stylish sons to talk dry drinking, bargains at Portobello Road and the most inspirational 84-year-old he knows.



GQ: Could you describe the Brooklyn Circus ethos in a few words? Ouigi Theodore: 'American', first and foremost. 'Vintage'. 'Tailored'. 'Casual'. 'Sportswear'.


Your brand has lots of different people contributing to it. How does that work? Internally it's more of a dictatorship - as I have my own clear vision - but we have created a community environment. I'm not open to changing the vision, but from a collaborative perspective it's open, it's democratic. We work with a whole host of cool guys from all over the world, for example Art Comes First here in London.


The team behind Art Comes First are huge over here on street style. What is it they bring to your brand? They're friends and great collaborative partners. They bring forth the tailoring aspect and we bring forth the sportswear element - one that they're always looking to get more into.


What is it that separates British streetwear and American streetwear? I'm not sure I know enough to make a comparison right now - that's one of the reasons I'm over here! That's why I'm attracted to art comes first. While I used to dress more in sportswear, as I've grown up my needs have changed. Now anything I wear has to have a tailored aspect as I'm not only always going in and out of meetings in a day, but I'll also want a ginger ale (I don't drink) at a bar after work. I can't freely go home to change so I need to make that work. My ultimate goal is to dress-up, polish and refine the American image.


Is that ginger ale your after-hours drink of choice? I'm a simple guy. I like sweet drinks so if i am having something I will often look over and have whatever the lady next to me is having. I don't have alcohol very much at all - one drink and I'll have my shirt off.


Who inspires you? A hatmaker friend of mine, Ruben Spitz. He's 84-years-old and an amazing human being. He goes to work every day, has 40 workers and is still constantly on about how to get better at what he's done for the last 50 or 60 years. We have a 100-year-plan together - and he's one of the few people who I'll have a proper drink with (a Belvedere cold).



What was the last stylish thing you bought? I've bought a couple of vintage pieces over here in London on Portobello Road since I arrived. My favourite is a an amazing two-button, three-piece vintage suit. The tailor's label on the inside says it was made in 1929 - and I think it was made originally in France. The best thing about it is that the waistcoat clearly got too small for the guy that owned it the tailor opened it up and created this incredible pulley system in the back to let it out.


Who is your best-dressed British man? To be honest all I ever see is American celebrities...and Tinie Tempah, he seems to be on every magazine right now! But he's doing a great job at shaping his image and because of that, as a non-Brit, I went and checked out his music.


What has been selling well for your label in the UK? Perhaps unsurprising given the weather, but outerwear has been selling really well and especially the varsity jackets - an item that we've been making since 2006. We also buy them back and repair them.


What are some of your favourite American labels? I'm a huge fan of both Thom Browne and Ralph Lauren. I love Thom Browne's uniform concept and the fact that he is a master of branding with that coloured taping. Also, his runway shows are phenomenal - there's so much theatre, so much drama. And Ralph I love as he's rooted in vintage American fashion, but with a British experience. I was a History Major and went of to art school so I love that - and also for not being afraid to be wrong sometimes.


Which British labels do you admire?Hackett - their stuff is really nice. I also love Church's footwear. I own a pair of Shanghai monk-straps - they're very much my vibe, my style and the more I see of Britain the more British they seem.


Brooklyn Circus' latest collection is available now at Harrods. harrods.com Nick Carvell

Nick is Fashion Editor of GQ.co.uk. Follow him on Twitter and Instagram at @nickcarvell.


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